I didn’t mention that we switched accommodation 2 times in Ubud to avoid musty rooms and stagnant pools of water (risk of dengue fever via mosquitoes). In Northern Bali-- Tejakula we arrived at our villa after a long and stunning drive through the eastern volcanic mountains. We enjoyed the view of Mt. Agung and the ground covering of volcanic ash.
We were suppose to spend a week there but the villa was not as advertised so Hersh negotiated to leave half way through. Small things that added up, like -- they provide snorkeling equipment…not…have cable… disconnected…has air con… is broken… is well appointed…has a 60’s styled kitchen with a few shelves and a hotplate , dim lights, broken this and that. The kicker was 3 frayed lampcords with bare wire exposed, and not enough power for basic electrical needs. Essentially, glorified camping with a beautiful lawn and view. All that would be fine, except this was advertised as a luxury villa. Night 2, and we were in the dark from 5 pm on because the whole northern region had a power outage. While this isn’t as rural as Bali gets, it isn’t far off. Poverty is everywhere, and yet, most everyone seems content.
…. And (switching tenses) despite my gripes with the villa, I am in love with Tejukula. There is a simple vibe, it is quieter and on the ocean. Yesterday I joined a Tibetan healing yoga class at the neighboring Bali Mandala Center(the only western center in the town) for yoga and meditation group retreats… finding some inner calm to match the surrounds.
The ocean is warmer to swim in than the kid pool at Oak Bay Rec. We went snorkeling today (a first for Sierra and me) and saw eels, blue starfish, clownfish, iridescent bluefish, and numerous other fish and creatures. While this isn’t the season for jellyfish there was one washed up on the beach so we are a tad tentative in the water. A jellyfish sting we do not need.
This morning we visited a local school. Sierra must have felt famous, and with a swarm of eager kids around her, she played Frisbee and ball toss with them. They loved it. We left the Victoria High School frisbee, motivational school stickers, books, wristbands and as many Canada pens and pencils we could find before we left Victoria, with them.
Everyone is eager to talk to us. Everyone smiles and says hello (Salamat Pagi! which is good morning in Balinese). While we ruefully don’t speak much Balinese (like almost none) it certainly isn’t hard to remember their names. They all have a name based on their birth order. It can change depending on the region of Bali you are in. So here, as a first born my name is Putu. Down south it was Wayan. But it could also be Gede. So is our gardener, our neighbor and a couple of the kids that hang around the edge of our villa watching us when Sierra isn’t playing with them. There are no last names. At most I might be Putu Catherine. http://www.klubkokos.com/guidebook/names.htm
Before our school visit this morning we ventured along local dusty paths (it is their dry season in an already dry region of Bali). Paths are peppered with chickens, dry pond fronds, smiling kids and garbage. One can see how destructive plastic has been to our world, as any walk we took there was past plastic garbage strewn over the land…a lot of the land. Locals say it is because they can’t afford taxes that would collect their garbage. It’s amazing how something produced for often only a few minutes of use will last for hundreds of years.
One 19 year old asked if we would please visit his house so we did. There his mother sat on a rock on the dusty ground, chopping greens to cook over the coals for breakfast. They would have greatly liked it if we stayed for breakfast but we politely declined. Instead, Savannah offered to go back tomorrow to give the 19 year old a lesson in English (as requested).
On our last day we were guests at the local school for Saraswati, a celebration of the goddess of knowledge and wisdom. Wow! Imagine that anywhere in the village you could hear the beckoning of Hindu music (they use loudspeakers) at dawn, quickly get ready and then arrive to see a few hundred kids dressed up in beautiful sarongs, sitting cross legged on their sandals on the ground, They are devotedly praying and chanting en masse. Incense burns, kids perform nerve awakening gamelan music, dancers dance and teachers bless every single kid with sacred water. This is the beginning of their graduation celebration. I think of all the poor dusty housing compounds that most of these kids live in and here they are celebrating with such richness.
….
Jimbaran
We said goodbye to Tejakula later that day and went to Jimbaran in the South. Sierra made a friend but she doesn’t have a home address and certainly doesn’t have email. Perhaps we’ll send her a note via the school.
In Jimbaran we learn that the morning after Saraswati, everyone heads to the water for another sacred holiday that blesses the 4 elements. Not knowing this, I arrive at the beach at 630am and to my surprise there are miles of offerings and kids playing in the water. It feels like every day is sacred here. Every day a chance to spiritually bless, smile, offer acts of kindness, and welcome good karma. There is a soft feeling in the air.
I walk to the end of the beach and into the crowd welcoming back the fishermen. The feeling changes and it’s pretty clear that I am not welcome. I leave. It’s okay.
A few more days of boogie boarding, waterslide park, long beach walks, Italian food on a terrace overlooking the bay at sunset and swimming in warm water… there were many lovely moments.
Next stop, Darwin Australia!
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